Paver Driveways

The ground here is sand, not clay. Sand drains well but it moves, so a driveway laid on a thin or badly compacted base will settle into ruts under a car within a couple of wet seasons. Base depth is the one thing separating a driveway that lasts from one that does not, and it is the easiest place for a low bid to hide.

Crushed limestone is the local base material and it compacts to something close to rock. It has to go down in lifts and be compacted at each one, not dumped and rolled once at the end.

Summer storms drop a lot of water fast. The driveway needs fall away from the garage and the house, and on flatter lots that sometimes means tying into a French drain rather than pitching the whole surface.

If your street sits inside an HOA, the paver colour and pattern usually need architectural approval before anything is ordered. We can pull samples that have already passed in nearby communities, which is normally quicker than starting from a catalogue.

Driveway pavers only work as well as what is underneath them. The interlocking pavers most people picture, rectangular concrete units laid in a herringbone or a running bond, get their strength from the way they lock against each other over a compacted base, not from the units themselves. Concrete driveway pavers are the usual choice here because they take vehicle load and they are easy to match years later. Brick pavers are the other route, and they suit an older house in a way a large modern grey format does not. Whichever you pick, base depth is what decides how it looks in five years.